Friday morning we packed overnight cases and headed down the
road to Ruaha. Ruaha is the second
largest National Park in Africa. It has
a wide variety of animals that live there as well as some beautiful scenery. We decided that we better go Friday afternoon
and Saturday morning – or we wouldn’t make it at all. After all, we are leaving for Dar Es Salaam
and home on Wednesday morning – so there is not much time left!
We headed out of town on the “Ruaha Road.” We have been down this road twice before on
this trip – both times to visit a parish that is starting a SACCOS. This time however we will go the full 130
kilometers to the park!
There are two branches to the Ruaha Road – the Tungamalenga
turn-off and the “never ending road.” We
decided that we would take the Tunagmalinga branch on the way out and the never
ending road on the way back.
Heading down the Tungamalinga branch things seemed familiar –
as well they should. We have been this
way twice on this trip – and we have been over this road in other years as
well. The road itself is like most of
the roads we have traveled – a washboard here, potholes there, a disappearing
bridge or two, and lots of natives carrying wood, baskets, and misc. here and
there. With the roughness of the road it
took us about 3 hours to get to the park.
Arriving at the Ruaha gateway, we stopped to talk to the
Rangers. This is the slow time of the
year here – it is often raining, the vegetation is lush making the animals hard
to spot, and vacation time is over for most.
According to the Rangers, there is only one other guest in the whole
park today!
Entering the park we stopped at the bridge over the Ruaha River. Often you can see hippos and crocs from the
bridge. We were not disappointed today
as we spied five hippos feeding and playing around in the water. Driving on we stopped for giraffes, antelope,
zebras, and baboons. We got to the River
Lodge (it is the only one that’s open now – normally there are 3 others) and
checked in to find that we are the only two guests expected today!
Ruaha is much lower than Iringa. While Iringa is about 1 mile above sea level,
Ruaha is only about 1,000 feet. This
means that it is much hotter here than back at the house. As a result nothing much moves (including the
guides and the tourists) between the hours of noon and 4:30. Since we got in about 1:30 or so we had lunch
and then went for a rest in our “primitive banyan.”
Emerging about 4 we had tea and then were off to see some
animals. First we ran into a small herd
of elephants playing along the river.
After watching them for awhile we took off for the far side of the park
where our guides had heard a lion pride had been spotted. Along the way we passed giraffes, zebras,
jackals, bat-eared fox, antelope, baboons, kudus, and lots of different types
of birds – some of which are found only in this park.
Finally we arrived at the lion pride we were looking for. This pride consists of ten animals. They had apparently eaten not too long ago
since they were just lazing around. Two
of them kept watch on the river bank, looking over a herd of elephants and
antelope on the other bank. We watched
them for awhile (you can drive quite close – we were no more than ten feet away
at one point) – they largely ignored us – except for one female who kept eyeing
Tom, we decided he must look juicer than the rest of us.
On the way back we stopped to look at the vista. Ruaha is really beautiful this time of the
year. It is full of wild flowers,
flowering vines, and lush vegetation.
Arriving back about 7 we were escorted to our banda – you can’t walk
around unescorted after dusk here – there are too many hippos, elephants, and
giraffes wandering around the camp.
A Masai warrior came and got us for supper. Our camp host was a refugee from Zimbabwe. Since we were the only people in the dining
room, we invited him to join us for supper.
His family had lived there for several
generations before being evicted by the current government. We had a good dinner, a pleasant conversation,
and then were escorted back to our banda to fall asleep to the grunts of the
hippos in the river.
Saturday started early – up and out at 6:30 for an early morning
drive. We were all surprised that there
was not much moving this morning. Still,
after driving around awhile, we started to see some of the morning wanderers. Finally we stopped for lunch at a spot
overlooking the river and the mountains.
A beautiful place for a morning breakfast.
As we drove towards the back side of the park we came across
a cheetah and her three cubs. An adult
cheetah is not too common to see, and finding one with three cubs is extremely rare. They walked
across the road just 10-15 meters in front of us. Mom and cubs seemed to be interested in us as
well, but they kept watch from the shade of a large shrub, where they would be
extremely difficult for the next group of tourists to see.
After watching the cheetahs, it was time to head back to
camp to check out. Our entrance fee was
good for only 24 hours, after which we would need to pay another $50. We packed, paid our bill, and headed for
home.
We are greeted as we enter the park
Sandy smiled back
We were greeted again outside our banda
Our digs
The sign next to our cabin
Elephants cooling off in the Ruaha River at dusk
This little lady crossed the road in front of us. Our guide identified her gender as female.
A jackal looked our way
This lioness licked her chops as she looked at Tom
This is mating season for the kudu, so we saw a lot of them.
Now we know that a zebra is black with white stripes
Sunset outside our banda
Picking through elephant dung for beetles
This is mating season for the kudu, so we saw a lot of them.
Now we know that a zebra is black with white stripes
Sunset outside our banda
Picking through elephant dung for beetles